Resplendent Rieslings

September 29th, 2007

Rieslings from the steep slate slopes of Germany’s Mosel River Valley are delicate and light-bodied wines. Those labeled Kabinett are usually no more than 10% alcohol. All display a discreet sweetness, which makes them good partners for spicy foods, especially fiery Asian cuisine. No trees are killed in making these wines, either: They’re aged in old barrels or stainless steel.

The following selections, reviewed by my colleague David Schildknecht, are from the 2005 vintage, an exceptionally strong one for the Mosel. They will stay fresh and gain complexity for five or more years, but you’ll succumb to temptation long before that.

91 points. From a sweet spot where slate cliffs and pooled water channel the sun’s energy into the grapes, this wine smells alluringly of vanilla, nut oil, baking spices, and flowers. Creamy and rich with nougat and maple syrup notes, it also has invigorating apple and lime flavors. $15

90 points. Scents of root beer and licorice are followed by a rich palate that combines apple and melon with the aforementioned root and herbal aromas. A superbly concentrated finish adds baking spices and underlying notes of toasted nuts and wet stones, a common characteristic of wines grown on slate slopes. $15

88 points. Made to retain only the subtlest hint of sweetness, this cuvйe offers scents and flavors of sweet cherry, baking spices, and wet stones. It has a satiny, plush texture, palpable density, and a roundly rich, judiciously sweet finish that, besides cherry, suggests kumquat, lemon oil, and honey. At 11.5% alcohol, it’s fuller-bodied than most Mosel rieslings. $16

88 points. From Piesport’s foremost vintner, this wine teems with grapefruit and pineapple flavors, supported by a modest amount of residual sugar and a creamy texture. A fine, sappy finish incorporates grapefruit zest, toasted nuts, and wet stones. Like the Zilliken, it is 11.5% alcohol. $17

90 points. From one of the Mosel’s great vineyards, this wine displays hints of apple and vanilla. It is juicy on the palate, with a subtle and alluring suggestion of creaminess. A long, nuanced finish displays dried apple, vanilla, and wet stones. $19

92 points. This really ripe yet still delicate wine offers a torrent of black cherries in the nose, mingled with vanilla, lime zest, flowers, and baking spices. Subtly creamy in texture yet juicy and ingratiating on the palate, it launches a lovely long finish of cherry, vanilla, and salt. $22

90 points. Lemon oil, peach, and a pungent whiff of spice and sea breeze inform the almost prickly nose of this Kabinett from a vast but quality-conscious estate. A bright, tongue-nipping, invigoratingly intense palate leads to a refined, ringing finish. $22

Wines rated from 96-100 are extraordinary; 90-95, excellent; 80-89, above average to very good.
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UN seeks end to Burma killings

September 29th, 2007

United Nations’ special envoy Ibrahim Gambari flew into a crisis-stricken Burma today on an emergency mission to persuade the country’s ageing junta of generals, who have ruled for 45 years, to settle the country’s political crisis without any more bloodshed.

Three days of violence have claimed up to 200 lives as the military launched a brutal clampdown after weeks of pro-democracy demonstrations led by tens of thousands of monks, but this weekend the junta appeared to be becoming increasingly isolated even among its closest Asian allies - including China. Gambari indicated that he expected to be allowed to speak to the pro-democracy opposition leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, who is presently under house arrest in Rangoon.

‘I expect to meet all the people that I need to meet,’ he told reporters. Gambari, a former Nigerian Foreign Minister, landed first in Rangoon, then flew on to the generals’ new capital, the bunker city of Naypyidaw, where he was due to meet dictator General Than Shwe. He said that he was going ‘to deliver a message from the Secretary-General to the leadership’ in line with last week’s condemnation by the UN Security Council.

The junta has ignored international demands for a peaceful end to their crackdown on a mass uprising led by monks, the moral core of the Buddhist nation. Gambari’s visit came amid reports that the latest clampdown had only been achieved at the cost of increasingly wide divisions in the military itself - including, some reports alleged, between Than Shwe and the head of the army, Vice General Maung Aye, who is understood to have argued with Than Shwe over last week’s violent clampdown. It is also believed that Maung Aye is thought to have sought a meeting with Suu Kyi.

There were reports today, confirmed by several sources, that hundreds, possibly thousands, of Buddhist monks have been rounded up by the military and taken from monasteries to a temporary detention camp set up in the Government Technology Institute School on the outskirts of Rangoon.

The French news agency AFP said security forces charged a group of around 100 protesters on the Pansoedan bridge in Rangoon. ‘They beat people so badly,’ one eyewitness said. ‘I wonder how these people can bear it. I saw the security forces arrest about five people on the streets.’

Fiji sink Welsh hearts

September 29th, 2007

Wales were left stunned after Fiji knocked them out of the group stages with a last gasp Graham Dewes try in the most dramatic match of the tournament so far.

Fiji had stormed into a 25-3 lead with three tries in the space of 12 first-half minutes, from Gloucester’s Akapusi Qera, winger Vilimoni Delasau and lock Kele Leawere.

After Alix Popham touched down for a pushover try shortly before the interval, Wales produced a spirited comeback to edge ahead with further scores from Shane Williams, Gareth Thomas and Mark Jones.

Wales began to ring the changes. Peel was replaced at scrum-half by Mike Phillips and Wales competed for the last 15 minutes with a whole new front row.

Fiji seemed out on their feet but still they tested Wales. Bai scooped up a long pass, beat Duncan Jones and stretched to ground the ball as Thomas tried to tackle him into touch.

This time the replays worked against Fiji and as they continued to press Martyn Williams picked off a pass from Little and raced 55 metres clear to score.

It was a try which, eight minutes from time, should have sealed the win - but Fiji refused to give up. Delasau cut inside when the overlap was begging and the chance appeared to be gone - but they kept the pressure on and Dewes drove over for the winning score. It was a try which sent Fiji to Marseille and Wales home.

Wales captain Gareth Thomas said he feared a backlash against his side when he got home.

“Our defence wasn’t up to standard. We turned over the ball in the wrong areas,” said Thomas. “Unfortunately, we’re going home but we’re going home proud Welshmen. We tried our best but we’ll probably get beaten down for this.”